Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Eco Data - For All The Designers, Customers, and Students Who Often Ask.

Manufacturer Name:
OLIVEIRA TEXTILES

Manufacturer Description:
Oliveira Textiles is a design studio focused on producing sophisticated, contemporary, environmentally considerate fabrics that combine fine design with sustainable materials by working with like-minded, certified production partners who are in line with our company’s mission.
*Our desire to promote organic and sustainable fabrics stemmed from several family illnesses which could not be sourced and a need to see cleaner methods of production in an industry renowned for chemically intense applications.

Materials: Sustainable/Organic Interior Fabrics
100% Hemp, and 55/45% Hemp-Organic Cotton blend

Material Description:
    • 100% hemp twill grown and woven in China.
    • 55/45 hemp/organic cotton twill grown and woven in China & Turkey
    • 60/40% Hemp/Silk grown & woven in China
    • 100% organic hemp herringbone grown and woven in Romania
Environmental Properties:
Hemp is a cellulosic fiber and is one of the longest, strongest, natural fibers on earth. Traditionally it was grown for its long bast fibers used for producing clothing, linens, ropes and sails. Today the potential applications are many. Due to the low environmental impact of its cultivation, many considerate it a crop for the future. With proper cultivation it can be grown without the need for chemical pesticides, herbicides and fungicides. Hemp is naturally biodegradeable.
Organic Cotton agriculture prohibits the use of toxic and persistent chemical pesticides and fertilizers, as well as genetically modified organisms. It seeks to build biologically diverse agricultural systems, replenish and maintain soil fertility and promote a healthy environment. Oliveira Textiles offers this fiber as an alternative to conventional cotton which requires large amounts of water, pesticides and herbicides to grow.

How is it used?
Oliveira Textiles offers these beautiful, healthy fabrics to the interior design trade and the general consumer as well... Some suggested uses are; upholstery, window treatments, accessories such as pillows, duvet covers, upholstered headboards etc.. The contemporary and bold colorways are at home in both the urban loft or seaside cottage. Event planners are also using the fabrics for table coverings.

Fabric Care Instructions:
Due to the absence of chemicals in the finishing process, our fabrics should be professionally cleaned. We, of course recommend using an organic dry cleaner whenever possible. Machine washing is not recommended as it will cause fading to occur. A gentle hand wash (no scrubbing) is also a good alternative to dry cleaning and please note that we recommend our natural fabrics for indoor use.

Washing
Most of our customers use and recommend washing rather than dry cleaning for hemp fabrics. (However; dry cleaning is recommended for cleaning slip-covers, draperies and other home furnishing item, due to potential for shrinkage in long pieces). Be gentle when laundering hemp: use a gentle wash cycle or hand wash and use just a little gentle soap. We like Ivory Snow (powder), but some people swear by Woolite, some people like Orvus Quilt Soap, and some even use their favorite shampoo! Whatever you use, follow the package directions. Place delicate hemp articles in a lingerie bag before putting them into a washing machine. Use cold to warm, not hot, water. Wash colored hemp in cold water. One cup of white vinegar in the rinse water removes all traces of soap and leaves fabrics smelling fresh. Launder stains when fresh. If allowed to set, stains may be permanent. We recommend that you don't use bleach, but if you do, use oxygen bleaches (hydrogen peroxide) for bleached or semi-bleached hemp. Chlorine bleaches can cause yellowing and damage the fabric and should be avoided. If hand washing, rinse very thoroughly. Removal of all soap will help prevent large brown spots on hemp, which are caused by oxidation of cellulose by residual soap.
Drying
Several drying methods are recommended for hemp - line drying, drying flat, machine drying, rolling in terry towels, or drying on the lawn! Line drying in the sun is best, yet impractical in many instances. When machine drying - watch the time! Over drying will result in broken fibers and threads. When Line drying or drying flat, be sure spread or stretch the fabric to avoid wrinkles as the fabric dries. Tumble dry on low heat setting until slightly damp. Remove immediately and press smooth with warm iron. Whatever method you use, bring the hemp in while it is still damp. If hemp dries thoroughly, it may become brittle, taking several hours to recover its natural moisture and flexibility. Don't wring wet or damp hemp before drying, it breaks the yarn fibers down and creates unnecessary wrinkles.
Ironing
Ironing is often optional when dried flat or tumbled at low heat. Ironing hemp is a great deal easier if you do it when the hemp is damp. And if hemp is removed from drying while still damp and ironed immediately, it is easier still. If ironing the fabric when completely dry, dampen the fabric thoroughly and iron on medium to high heat. Steam ironing dry hemp is less effective and requires more effort. Use spray starch (if desired) and iron with lots of steam at a medium-to-hot setting.
Iron on the wrong side first, then on the right side to bring out the sheen, especially in light-colored hemp. Iron darker hemps on the wrong side only. Heavier fabrics may need a slightly higher temperature setting. Hemp can withstand the highest temperature setting on your iron. Iron hemp until smooth but not dry. Once wrinkles are gone, hang the hemp item until it is bone dry. When ironing embroidered hemp, keep the embroidery stitches rounded and dimensional by pressing item on the wrong side atop a soft towel. Use a press cloth to safeguard delicate lace and cutwork. A press cloth also helps to avoid press marks over seams, hems and pockets. Place a table next to the ironing board when ironing large tablecloths. Roll finished sections of the cloth over the table rather than letting it pile up under the ironing board. Minimize creasing ironed tablecloths by rolling them around a tube or hanging them. When traveling, do not try to steam out wrinkles; wrinkles must be pressed out with an iron. Dampen the hemp first.
Dry Cleaning
is recommended for cleaning slip-covers, draperies and other home furnishing items, due to the potential for shrinkage in long pieces and custom cut and sewn pieces Dry cleaning solvents do not swell natural fibers such as hemp, linen, wool, silk cotton or jute so there is very little shrinkage, pilling or wrinkling in those fabrics when dry cleaned. Water penetrates these fibers readily causing swelling and thus produces dimensional changes and pilling which are in some cases are irreversible. If dry cleaning is the method of cleaning used, it is important to point out spots so the dry cleaner can pre-treat the stain correctly. Ask whether solvents are regularly changed. If white linens turn gray or yellow, it may be an indication that the solvents need to be replaced.

How is it made?
The basic processes involved in creating hemp and cotton fabrics are:

1. growing and harvesting the crop 
2. separating the fibers 
3. spinning and weaving these fibers into yarn
4. cleaning and softening 5. dyeing and finishing

* Our organic hemp is grown in Romania using old world methods of water retting, breaking, scutching, and hackling producing a long fiber that is spun and then woven. No chemicals are used in the processes and no finishes are applied.
* Our printing mills are based in the US.
* Oeko-Tex approved, fiber reactive dyes are used in the printing process, as well as water-based,
heavy-metal free pigment dyes (commonly referred to as low-impact)
* Our organic cotton (blended with Chinese hemp) is grown in Turkey using organic methods of production and supplied by a US wholesaler. 

What forms do the Materials come in?
These textiles are sold by the yard and in finished 20” pillows. They can be purchased through our studio at Oliveira Textiles, 219 High Street, Bristol, RI 02809, 401-396-9194-p 401-753-6651-f, 917-523-3986-cell, info@oliveiratextiles.com

Technical Specifications: 5 Fabric qualities (we will be adding/supplementing new ground cloths in early 2012)
  • Romanian 100% certified organic hemp herringbone 62” wide goods, 60” printed area, 13.5oz, natural and semi bleached with hydrogen peroxide
  • Chinese 100% hemp twill 60” wide goods, 54” printed area, 12.5 oz, semi-bleached with hydrogen peroxide.
  • Chinese 55/45% hemp/org cotton twill 60” wide goods, 54” printed area, 10.5 oz, semi-bleached with hydrogen peroxide.
  • Chinese 60/40% hemp/silk hemp plain 46” wide goods, 44” printed area, 8.5 oz, semi-bleached with hydrogen peroxide.
  • Chinese 100% hemp linen, plain 58” wide goods, 52” printed area, 5.8 oz, semi-bleached with hydrogen peroxide.

11 Patterns currently in our collection – pattern repeat sizes are as follows:

1. Anemone ----------- 27”v. x 27”h. half-drop, one-way, 54” printed area
2. Shellgame --------- 27”v. x 18”h. square, two way, 54” printed area
3. Wavelength ------- 18”v. x 27”h. square, two way, 54” printed area
4. Madeira Vine ------ 27”v. x 18”h. square, one way, 58” printed area
5. Paradise ------------ 22.7”v x 16.2”h square, one-way, 57.5” printed area
6. Planktivore --------- 27”v x 27”h square, one-way, 58” printed area
7. New Madeira Vine--- 20.12”v x 26.16”h, square, one-way, 58” printed area
8. Ripple Effect ----- 5.9”v x 10.4”h square, two-way (small scale pattern), 58” printed area
9. Spiral Tide --------- 4.1”v x 10.275”h. square, one-way, 42” printed area
10. Kelp Me------------ 6.2”v x 10.2”h square, one-way, 55” printed are 
11. Kelp Me Grande w/ Fish--19.8”v x 12.28”h square, one-way, 55” printed area

Colorways
1. HH119 Anemone WildPlum, 100% Romanian hemp herringbone, 13.5 oz, natural grnd (lt beige)
2. HH118 Anemone StormGrey, 100% Romanian hemp herringbone, 13.5 oz, cream grnd (hydr peroxide)
3. HH117 Anemone SunOrange, 100% Romanian hemp herringbone, 13.5 oz, cream grnd (hydr peroxide)
4. HOC104 Anemone RedCoral, 55/45 Chinese hemp cotton twill, 10.5oz cream grnd (hydr peroxide)
5. HOC105 Anemone MysticBlue, 55/45 Chinese hemp cotton twill, 10.5oz, cream grnd (hydr peroxide)
6. HOC106 Anemone Seaweed 55/45 Chinese hemp cotton twill, 10.5 oz, cream grnd (hydr peroxide)
7. H108 Shellgame Crimson, 100% Chinese hemp twill, cream 12.5oz, (hydr peroxide) grnd
8. H107 Shellgame Navy, 100% Chinese hemp twill, 12.5oz, cream (hydr peroxide) grnd
9. H109 Shellgame Moss, 100% Chinese hemp twill, 12.5 oz, cream (hydr peroxide) grnd
10. HOC111 Shellgame Crimson, 55/45 Chinese hemp/org cotton twill, 10.5oz,cream grnd (hydr peroxide) 
11. HOC110 Shellgame Navy, 55/45 Chinese hemp/org cotton twill, 10.5oz, cream grnd (hydr peroxide)
12. HOC112 Shellgame Moss 55/45 Chinese hemp/org cotton twill, 10.5oz, cream grnd (hydr
peroxide)
13. H102 Wavelength RedTide, 100% Chinese hemp twill, 12.5oz, cream grnd (hydr peroxide)
14. H101 Wavelength Ultramarine, 100% Chinese hemp twill, 12.5oz, cream grnd (hydr peroxi)
15. H103 Wavelength Verde 100% Chinese hemp twill, 12.5oz, cream grnd (hydr perox)
16. HH121 Madeira Vine ShaleSand 100% Romanian hemp herringbone, 12.5oz, natural grnd (lt beige)
17. HH120 Madeira Vine Marigold 100% Romanian hemp herringbone, 12.5oz, cream grnd (hydr peroxide)
18. HH124 Paradise Azure Blue 100% Romanian hemp herringbone, 12.5oz, cream grnd (hydr peroxide)
19. HH125 Planktivore Azure-Lime 100% Romanian hemp herringbone, 12.5oz, cream grnd (hydr peroxide)
20. HH126 Ripple Effect Pale Emerald Gr 100% Romanian hemp herringbone, 12.5oz, cream grnd (hydr peroxide)
21. HH127 New Madeira Vine Calypso Pink 100% Romanian hemp herringbone, 12.5oz, cream grnd (hydr peroxide)
22. HH128 New Madeira Vine Citron 100% Romanian hemp herringbone, 12.5oz, cream grnd (hydr peroxide)
23. HS131 Spiral Tide Blue Ice 60/40% Chinese hemp/silk, 8.5oz, cream grnd (hydra perox)
24. HS132 Spiral Tide Green Ice 60/40% Chinese hemp/silk, 8.5oz, cream grnd (hydr perox)                                        25. HS134 Planktivore Coral Reef 60/40% Chinese hemp/silk, 8.5oz, cream grnd (hydr perox)                                     26. HOC135 KelpMe Moss 55/45% Chinese hemp/org cotton twill, 10.5oz, cream grnd (hydr perox)                                                                                                                   27. HOC136 KelpMe Tangerine 55/45% Chinese hemp/org cotton twill, 10.5oz, cream grnd (hydr perox)
28. HOC137 KelpMe MysticBlue 55/45% Chinese hemp/org cotton twill, 10.5oz, cream grnd (hydr perox)
29. HOC138 KelpMe Grande w/ Fish Moss 55/45% Chinese hemp/org cotton twill, 10.5oz, cream grnd (hydr perox)
30. HOC139 KelpMe Grande w/ Fish Tang. 55/45% Chinese hemp/org cotton twill, 10.5oz, cream grnd (hydr perox)
31. HOC140 KelpMe Grande w/ Fish Myst Bl. 55/45% Chinese hemp/org cotton twill, 10.5oz, cream grnd (hydr perox)

Certifications:
100% hemp herringbone fabric grown and woven in Romania
Number of certificate 007/2007
Certified partner COD: RO/1795
S.C. Canna International S.R.L.-The partner has a valid contract with Ecoinspect Romania
Standard UE 2092/91 EU Council Regulation 2092/91

These goods meet the human-ecological requirements of the standard presently established for baby articles. The certified articles fulfill the requirements of the existing European legislation regarding the use of azo-dyes. Products carrying the "Oeko-Tex Standard 100 label have been tested using 100 criteria to ensure that there are no hazardous substances. All textile products from field to garment (fiber, yarn, fabric, accessory or clothing plus finishings) may be certified. Twelve member institutes and their agencies from Denmark, Belgium, France, Germany, Hungary, Austria, Italy, Japan, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia, South Africa, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey, the United Kingdom and the United States comprise the Oeko-Tex association. Their specifications are based on current scientific knowledge of human ecology, clothing physiology and associated fields and are generally more rigorous than individual nation's standards.
Here are a few parameters of Oeko-Tex 100 certification:
  Prohibited 
· Azo dyestuffs; 
· Carcinogenic and allergy-inducing dyestuffs; 
· Formaldehyde; 
· Pesticides; 
· No chlorinated phenols; 
· Chloro-organic carriers; 
· Extractable heavy metals; 
· Nickel; 
· Phthalates in baby articles; 
· Color-fastness; 
· pH-value; 
· Butyl tin compounds (TBT and DBT); 
· Emissions of volatile components; 
                                    
Testing Results for Ocean Collection Pigments;
AATCC 8: Colorfastness to Crocking, 4.5 dry, 3.0 wet
Class 5 = No Color Transfer, Class 1 = High degree of transfer
CPSIA 101: Lead Testing, Pass <4ppm font="font" nbsp="nbsp">
CPSIA current requirements for lead are <600ppm font="font" nbsp="nbsp">
ASTM 5034: Tensile Strength–lbs. warp, 335.1 fill, 218.1
AATCC 16Light-fastness: passes- class 5 at 20hrs, class 5 at 40hrs, class 4 at60hrs

Home testing of Ocean Collection’s colorfastness: swatches were placed outdoors from March-April during heavy rains, light sun, cold temperatures (30-45 degrees F), and no change was seen in color or fading. We have also hand washed, gently machine washed and organically dry cleaned the fabrics with good results. Fabric does become softer with washing. We highly recommend organic, 'perc-free' dry cleaning when possible.
http://www.greenearthcleaning.com/?page=Storelocator
Dawn Oliveira
Oliveira Textiles
219 High Street
Bristol, RI 02809
401-396-9194